Etienne Archambault’s: Review of the Rolex Submariner (Steel and Gold, Ref. 126613LB)

 

Etienne Archambault, coming to you from St. John’s, Newfoundland, where watches aren’t just tools for telling time—they’re a deep-rooted passion, a challenge, and, in many ways, a way of life. Today, I’m diving deep into the Rolex Submariner in steel and gold, reference 126613LB, one of the most iconic and sought-after timepieces in the world. And here in Newfoundland, this watch is about as elusive as spotting an iceberg in July. But once you’ve laid your hands on one, it’s a game changer. Let me take you through why this two-tone Submariner is worth every bit of the chase.

The Quest for the Submariner: A Horological Pilgrimage in Newfoundland

First off, why is this watch so rare here in Newfoundland? In simple terms: limited supply, high demand, and geography. Newfoundland isn’t exactly Rolex’s first port of call, and with only a handful of authorized dealers in Atlantic Canada, getting your hands on a steel and gold Submariner can take years. Add to that the fact that Rolex intentionally limits production to maintain exclusivity, and you’ve got a recipe for a waitlist that feels longer than a Newfoundland winter.

The combination of Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold—also known as Rolesor—is another reason for the rarity. This two-tone design, introduced by Rolex in the 1980s, marries the durability of steel with the luxury of gold, creating an aesthetic that appeals to collectors like me, Etienne Archambault, who want a watch that’s a bit flashier than the all-steel Submariner but not as bold as the full-gold variant. Pre-owned models often go for $27,000 to $30,000, especially in Newfoundland’s constrained market. For many of us, the hunt for this watch becomes as important as finally owning it.

First Impressions: A Watch That Demands Attention

When you first hold the Rolex Submariner in steel and gold, reference 126613LB, the weight is the first thing you’ll notice. At 188 grams, it’s substantial, yet perfectly balanced. The blend of brushed Oystersteel and polished 18k yellow gold creates a striking contrast, a hallmark of Rolex’s legendary craftsmanship. Whether you’re outdoors in the subtle Newfoundland daylight or in a more intimate setting, the interplay of light on the gold accents is mesmerizing. It’s a watch that catches the eye but does so with a sense of understated luxury.

The 41mm case size fits comfortably on most wrists, offering an ideal mix of presence and wearability. For those familiar with earlier Submariner models, this newer iteration represents an evolution—subtle refinements in proportions and lug shape make it feel more compact on the wrist despite its larger case size compared to the pre-2020 versions.

The Movement: A Masterpiece in Precision

Now, let's talk about what powers this horological icon. Underneath its stunning exterior lies Rolex's caliber 3235, one of the most advanced movements Rolex has ever created. Introduced in 2015, the 3235 is an automatic mechanical movement that features Rolex's patented Chronergy escapement, which improves the efficiency of energy transmission by 15%. This improvement results in a longer power reserve—up to 70 hours—allowing the watch to keep ticking even after a weekend off your wrist.

Rolex’s dedication to precision shines through with the 3235 movement. It’s a COSC-certified chronometer, but Rolex goes further by subjecting it to additional in-house testing, ensuring an accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day. The 3235 also boasts an optimized Parachrom hairspring made of an exclusive paramagnetic alloy, which is resistant to temperature variations and magnetic fields, ideal for the unpredictable elements of Newfoundland’s coastal weather. As someone who appreciates the technical side of watches, I, Etienne Archambault, can’t help but admire the engineering behind this movement.

Materials: Strength, Durability, and Luxury

The Submariner’s steel and gold version, reference 126613LB, is built using two of Rolex’s proprietary materials: Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold. Oystersteel, part of the 904L steel family, is highly resistant to corrosion and designed to withstand extreme environments. It maintains its polish and gleam over time, making it perfect for the salty, rugged terrain of Newfoundland.

The gold, of course, is Rolex’s own 18k yellow gold, crafted in its in-house foundry. Rolex controls the entire process, from smelting to shaping, ensuring the highest standard of quality. The combination of these materials—steel for strength, gold for luxury—is what gives the Submariner its dual personality: a robust tool watch with the elegance of a dress piece.

The bezel, made from Rolex's patented Cerachrom ceramic, is virtually scratch-proof and fade-resistant. The gold numerals and graduations are carved into the ceramic, then filled with gold, ensuring they will stand the test of time, no matter how many dives—or hikes up Signal Hill—you take. And yes, this isn’t just a metaphorical dive watch; it’s water-resistant to 300 meters, thanks to its Triplock crown system, making it just as functional on the Atlantic coast as it is under the boardroom cuff.

A Brief History of the Submariner: From the Depths to the Pinnacle of Luxury

The Rolex Submariner was first introduced in 1953 as a professional dive watch. Designed with input from military divers and underwater pioneers, it was the first wristwatch capable of withstanding depths of 100 meters—a breakthrough at the time. Over the decades, the Submariner has evolved, both technologically and stylistically, but it has always remained true to its roots: a dive watch par excellence.

The addition of gold into the Submariner line in the late 1960s marked Rolex's foray into blending utilitarian function with luxury. The two-tone model, or Rolesor, debuted in the 1980s, a move that further solidified the Submariner's place not only as a tool watch but as a status symbol. Today, it’s just as at home on the wrist of an adventurer as it is in a collection of high-end horology enthusiasts. For someone like me, Etienne Archambault, who values both functionality and style, this blend of ruggedness and luxury is exactly what I look for in a watch.

Pros: Why I, Etienne Archambault, Love This Watch

1. Versatility: The two-tone design allows you to wear the Submariner in virtually any setting—formal, casual, or rugged.

2. Durability: The Cerachrom bezel and Oystersteel case are designed to last, even in Newfoundland’s harsh, salty conditions.

3. Resale Value: The steel and gold Submariner holds its value exceptionally well, often appreciating due to its rarity, especially in smaller markets like St. John’s.

4. Comfort: Thanks to the Oyster bracelet’s Glidelock system, you can easily adjust the fit to match Newfoundland’s ever-changing climate, a lifesaver in both summer and winter.

Cons: A Few Drawbacks

1. Rarity: The long wait times in Newfoundland make obtaining this watch a test of patience.

2. Price: The addition of gold comes with a significant premium over the standard steel model, pushing it beyond reach for many buyers.

3. Attention-Grabbing: The two-tone design isn’t as low-key as the all-steel version, which may be a turn-off if you prefer more understated pieces.

Final Thoughts: A Timeless Classic in an Isolated Market

Living in St. John’s, Newfoundland, makes owning a Rolex Submariner in steel and gold feel like a treasure hunt. Yes, it’s rare, and yes, it’s expensive, but for those who appreciate craftsmanship and history, this watch is the epitome of all three. It’s a piece that will outlast trends and provide decades of reliable performance. Whether you’re wearing it to dinner or taking in the rugged beauty of the Newfoundland coast, the Rolex Submariner will always rise to the occasion.

If you’re fortunate enough to get your hands on one, don’t let it go—this is a watch for life.

Yours truly,
Etienne Archambault
Watch Collector and Enthusiast in Newfoundland